Amongst mechanics, there seems to be two schools of thoughts regarding gear oil. While some recommend that you change gear oil at regular intervals, others do not bother too much about it at all. Whatever it is, gear oil is definitely the most neglected item of a car.

What in reality, is gear oil? Gear oil is motor oil that’s made specially for the transmission or the differentials in an automobile. According to my mechanic friend, Raman, unlike engine oil, “gear” oil is numbered 90W to 140W. This means gear oil, has a high viscosity. Its “thickness” is necessary to provide maximum protection which is so essential for moving parts of the gear boxes.

Gear oil is very similar to motor oil or, if you like engine oil, which is used for engine lubrication. Gear oil, on the other hand, possess many different properties. This is to meet many different demands that are placed on it.

Unlike engine oil, gear oil takes a great of deal heat, without breaking down. Its duty is to lubricate other parts in an engine. However, gear oil does not reach the temperatures of an engine oil.

Gear oil, is associated with parts that move somewhat slower. Nevertheless, it is reported to get heated up significantly as the vehicle is driven. In gear boxes or differentials, pressures in interlocking metals are said to be more extreme. Because of this, gear boxes require the assistance of gear oil.

What does gear oil contain? It contains sulphur. Sulphur forms a protection coating on all metal parts it touches. This will prevent direct metal to metal contact. Without the coating provided by gear oil, extreme pressures which takes place in the gear box, the parts inside would heat up to a temperature that is considered as hazardous to the operating capability of vehicles and parts will eventually wear out.

Gear oil in passenger vehicles, it is not something that is frequently replaced by motorists, unlike engine oil. For those of you riding motorcycles, it is recommended that you change your gear oil every 3,800 miles or 6,000 km. Do remember, that a motorcycle gear will deplete as time goes by. It then loses its ability to protect the clutch as well as the gear systems of a machine.

How does one go about changing the gear oil of a vehicle?

The same applies as to changing the engine oil. For cars, simply drain oil from the differential, then replace the drain plug, pour in the required amount, which is anything from 3.5 litres to 4 litres, and then replace the oil lid.

In the case of motorcycles, replace with oil that is specially intended for motors and scooters duly. For readers’ information, I use a very popular gear box oil currently available in Malaysia. It is American made. Among the properties of the above oil are:

1. it is suitable for all manual transmission.

2. Quietens noisy operation of gear boxes.

3. Restores smooth shifting of gears.

4. Improved performance is guaranteed.

Finally, it should also be made known that the above gear oil, used by the writer is the only lubricant company in the world ever to be inducted into the Space Foundation Hall of Fame!

Well then, what are you waiting for? Go for it! And in doing so, I hope you’ll enjoy easy and smooth changing of gears.

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The fuel filter’s function is to filter petrol, fuel or diesel which are stored in the fuel tank of contaminants such as rust and dirt. The second filter which obviously needs no mention is the oil filter. Basically, the oil filter’s function is to rid engine oil or lubrication oil of metal oxides, rust and grime that are found in the engine or lubrication oil making the engine much smoother eventually.

If you were to ask of me, what part does an air filter play in a car or vehicle engine, what then would my answer be? An air filter is a device which is made of fibrous material. It is meant to remove solid particles such as dust, pollen mold and bacteria from the air or atmosphere.

Air filter are used commonly in modern engines of today. Air intake of internal combustion engines and compressors frequently use paper, cotton or foam filters. Air filters are usually overlooked in a car’s itinerary. As a matter of fact, clogged or dirty air filters can very significantly reduce air flow in the cabin or compartment of a car.

What does an air filter in reality do? An air filter actually prevents abrasive matter from entering the engines cylinders where it can cause mechanical wear and contamination. Talking about air filters, such items are normally constructed of paper or felt.

In most of fuel injected vehicles, they use pleated paper filter element in the form of a flat panel. This filter is usually placed in a plastic box connected to the throttle today with an intake tube.

Other vehicles which use carburetors, usually use a cylindrical air filter between 6 inchs (150mm) and 16 inchs (410mm) in diameter. Now that readers know what an air filter is, permit me to delve slightly into the history of this important item of a car.

In 2003, the Ford Motor Company introduced what is called the “Visteon Long Life Filtration System” into the Ford Focus car. In the above system, the foam filter was placed in the bumper of the car. It was said to have a 240,000 km or 150,000 miles service interval.

According to a technical paper, which was published by the Society of Automotive Engineers, this design offered a higher and more stable filtration efficiency when compared to other conventional air filters.

Today, pleated paper filter elements are the exclusive selection of automotive engine air cleaners due to the fact that it is easy to service and its cost of production is very low. Besides, pleated paper air filters which are very popular in the market nowadays, there is also available in the market today of oil polyurethane foam elements which are used in some replacement auto air filters.

However, paper air filter have replaced oil wetted foams nowadays. There is yet another form of air filter which this writer feels should also be made known to readers. The filter in question is none other what is called the oil bath oil filter. I still recall one such filter that I chanced to come across in 1961, a Volkswagen 1200cc model that he owned way back some 40 years ago. The oil bath oil filter consists of a round base bowl containing a pool of oil with a round insert which is made of mesh or wire, foam or any coarse filter media.

For readers’ further information, the Volkswagen Beetle was commissioned to be built by the second world war dictator, Adolf Hitler of Germany for a sum of only £50. The above “Beetle”, was reportedly built by the famous and international renowned car builder, Ferdinand Porsche himself.

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After making the mistake of pumping diesel into my petrol Perodua Kancil, as a driving instructor for many years, I’ve now decided that I should teach my young students, who are mostly 17 or 18 years, the correct manner to fill up petrol at our petrol stations

I usually advise my students the proper and correct way of filling up petrol or “gas”, as they say in America. Amongst the many advices usually given include:-
1) Ensure you as a driver, drive your car into the square space next to the petrol pump. The petrol pumps are normally numbered 1 – 10.

2) Ensure that your car is placed approximately 1 – 2 feet from the pump.

3) Make certain that the pump you’re entered into, issues or supplies the fuel that you require, that is “petrol”.

4) Fuel in Malaysia are normally of 2 varieties. RON 95 for older vehicles and RON 97 for new vehicles and more expensive model of vehicles.

5) After ensuring that you have indeed landed up in the correct pump, locate the position of your fuel tank. It would be either be on the right or left side of your vehicle.

In most vehicles, you’ll have to pull a lever to release or “open” the cover to your petrol tank. However, in older vehicles, a key would be required to open up the cover.

Some newer cars even use the “sensor” touch system. In one of my other articles on Ford cars, Fiesta, Mondeo and Focus versions of its latest models makes it unnecessary for motorists to unscrew the cap to the fuel tank.

After you have located where the petrol tank is and what to do with it, the next step would be to approach the counter to order the amount of petrol you would like to insert into your vehicle.

6) Assuming that a motorist would like to fill in a RM50 worth of petrol into his or her car. Tell the counter clerk the amount you want. You can either pay cash or use your credit card should you have one.

In most petrol stations, the operators supply motorists with rebates or discounts. Cards such as “Smile” and “Bonuslink” are examples of rebate cards available in the market.

Even Genting Highlands point cards can collect rebate points at petrol stations. The points collected can be exchanged for drinks, toys, umbrellas and even food from time to time.

During festive seasons, like Hari Raya, Deepavali and Chinese New Year, boxes of packet drinks are offered to motorists. All in all, it is a great way to repay motorists who patronize these petrol stations. It is my opinion, a move that encourages healthy competition amongst petrol station operators, should be encouraged.

What should an inexperienced motorist who has just got his “P” license to do after he has made payment at the counter?

Well, the next step is to decide which type of petrol he wants. The best alternative is to choose RON 97. It may be slightly more expensive, but RON 97 is said to give motorists better acceleration, more power and protect engines eventually.

7) After opening the cap to the petrol tank, place the nozzle into the tank, and depress a small lever at the base of the nozzle. Observe the meter at the pump depicting the amount of petrol you have ordered. Make sure, the pump issues the correct amount of fuel you have intended to purchase.

8) After completion of filling in the amount of petrol required, remove the nozzle from your petrol tank and replace it on to the pump. Ensure that the fuel tank cap is put back tightly. Push back the petrol tank cover properly.

You have thus successfully succeeded in filling up petrol which your car requires. With this article, it is hoped new and inexperienced drivers who have just got their “P” licenses, will from henceforth find it easy to fill up petrol which your car requires.

While attempting to master the intricacies of learning up the “National Language” or “Bahasa Malaysia”, way back in 1957, I remember my language teachers, Mr. Koh Liang Sih and Encik Yusuf Khan, from the Anglo Chinese Secondary School in Jalan Raya West, Klang, emphasizing upon the importance of “proverbs” or “sayings” in learning up a certain language.

As a result, the two language teachers, Mr. Koh and Encik Yusuf above, insisted that students learn up hundreds, if not thousands of “perumpamaan” and “simpulan bahasa” in the process of becoming proficient in the National Language.

Such stringent and dedicated attempts by my “bahasa” teachers, have without a doubt led me becoming very interested not only in Bahasa Malaysia but also achieving a “credit 5” in Bahasa Melayu as early as 1964 in the Overseas Senior Cambridge Examination.

Later on, I went on to obtain his Bahasa Melayu Principal Level, with distinction (A2) in both Bahasa Melayu (language and grammar) and Bahasa Melayu II (sastera, puisi and classical Malay). The above results were obtained through sheer, hard work and much dedication, not forgetting the constant pressures and advice of my Bahasa Malaysia teachers while I was at the tender age of 13 or 14 years.

To provide you readers with some of the Malay proverbs and sayings this writer learnt up while in forms 1 and 2 are:
i. Sediakan payung sebelum hujan

ii. Tepuk sebelah tangan tidak akan berbunyi

iii. Seperti kaduk naik junjung

iv. Umpama katak di bawah tempurung

v. Tidak tahu menari katanya tanah tinggi rendah

vi. Betapa pandai tupai melompat, akhirnya ia akan jatuh ke bumi juga.

What has the last saying or proverb given above, anything to do at all with today’s article, you might like to enquire?

Well, the story unfolding goes like this. I have been driving since 1970. All in all, my experience in driving has spread over more than 40 or more years. But what I experienced some 2 or 3 years ago, did take place inspite of my rather long experience. I am rather certain that what transpired to me can also very well happen to other drivers as well.

You see, what happened was this. In attempting to fill up petrol one evening at approximately 7 pm in a Shell station at Kampung Jawa, Klang, I was then in a hurry, went into a wrong lane. I landed up going into a lane specially meant for “diesel” vehicles.

To say that I was the one to be blamed a hundred percent for committing the mistake would be incorrect. I admit I was in a hurry. But the fact was, the petrol station I feel made a bigger mistake than myself.

The petrol station proprietor should have kept the “diesel” supply under special lock and key. This is to prevent unforeseen incidences like what happened to me from happening. Anyway, most petrol stations else where in town, do that. But the petrol station I am referring to failed to do just that.

To cut the long story short, I paid RM10 to the counter clerk and immediately took hold of the pump nozzle and inserted some five to six dollars worth of “diesel” fuel into my Kancil petrol tank. By the time I realized my folly, it was already too late. Like the famous Malay proverb, “nasi sudah menjadi bubur”. The damage been done already.

As an experienced driver, you’ll be able to comprehend what the consequences will be if ever you should commit the same mistake that I made.

My many mechanic friends that I have such as, Wah Chye, Ah Keng, Raman, Ah Lam and Abbas, have always advised me again and again, that inadvertently pouring diesel into a petrol tank meant for cars running on petrol, will result in the owner having to dismantle the entire “tangki” or “tank” to flush out the diesel. It’s a long and tedious process.

So what did I do pertaining to the above mistake?

Mechanics have always advised me to rectify the mistake I made by filling in more petrol into the tank. This is to counter balance the amount of diesel. I had mistakenly inserted into the petrol tank.

To tell you the truth, nothing that I did the next few days, seems to help. But I was adamant. I kept on putting in more and more petrol with the hope that eventually the diesel in my petrol tank would soon be exhausted. And my vehicle, which I was for instructing students will revert to its original condition once again.

Allow me at this juncture to advice you what you should do should you inadvertently, fill up diesel into your vehicle which is supposed to use RON 97 or RON 95. The things which a driver or motorist should ideally do are:-
i. Send your vehicle immediately to your personal mechanic or agent for immediate attention. Failing which your car or vehicle is likely to sustain extensive damage.

ii. The mechanic should ideally service the carburetor to get rid of the diesel residues. Cars with fuel injection systems would require more complicated measures to be taken I suppose. Your mechanic should be the correct person to advise you what to do.

iii. If your vehicle has plugs, either clear them up or change new plugs for your vehicle.

iv. The petrol tank should ideally be dismantled completely and all combination of both diesel and petrol in the fuel tank should be drawn out and the tank dried before being refilled onto your vehicle.

All in all, it is indeed a rather big hassle. And without a doubt, it would require quite a large amount of expenses and time on your part.

I would like to advise you that you should not land up with what I did, that is inserting diesel into my petrol driven car. In future, if you should go into a petrol station anywhere, after stopping your vehicle, make certain that you have parked it in a lane which supplies petrol, and not diesel.

Irregardless of whether the proprietor of the petrol has taken steps to ensure that diesel pumps are kept under lock and keys, as required, the “onus” is on you as a driver, to ensure that you do not make the mistake I committed in this article.

The responsibility not to make a silly mistake like what I did, should not, ever occur at all. In short, be careful! Look carefully at all the signs available. Ask the petrol attendants if you have to.

As they say in Bahasa Malaysia “malu bertanya, sesat jalan”. It’s always better to ask around rather than end up making a costly mistake anyway.

The problems were caused by a weak battery and a faulty starter. Alas, that was not the end of my predicament. As the Kancil started to act up again, I decided to make a visit to my regular mechanic Raman’s shop at Taman Sentosa.

At Raman’s place, he confirmed the plastic connection of wires from the battery terminal was the problem. A change of battery terminals which cost RM6 seems to solve the problem at the beginning. When night fall came that evening and the headlights of the Kancil then had to be installed, the horn became weak and the head lamps grew dimmer.

Immediately, I became suspicious that something was not correct with the car. Experience told me something was wrong with the alternator this time around. Another visit again to my electrician friend’s shop. This time around, he told me it was indeed the alternator was the cause of the problem.

It was decided by the mechanic that the said Kancil had to be replaced with a new alternator and the cost was another RM170!

With the process of elimination, I was slowly through trial and error, changed the car battery initially. Then a week later, I went on to change the starter, which I felt was the reason why the car failed to start well. And finally, I went on to change my car alternator eventually.

And after all these changes, I am glad to say, the car now behaves beautifully. Will the Kancil run smoothly from now on? Hopefully, it does! After installing a new battery, changing its starter switch and changing a new alternator, it should be able to run along nicely, I hope.

And should any further mechanical problems develop with the Kancil in the future, I can only think of the ignition switch and nothing else as being the source of the problem.

A new ignition switch can easily cost around RM60 – RM70. A Datsun 120Y model which I used for driving tuition, its ignition switch used to cost RM40 in the 1970s. It looks as if the Kancil, even though it’s a small car, its spare parts are indeed quite expensive.

For readers who might be facing starter or ignition problem, do not forget the problems may very likely end up to be:
i) Caused by a weak battery.

ii) Caused by a bad starter unit.

iii) Caused by a faulty alternator.

iv) A bad ignition switch.

Your problems may be due to any one of the above causes or if you’re unlucky like me, it may even be caused by all four factors mentioned above. Using a 2nd hand old car can sometimes cause a lot of money when compared to a new car.

When my 10 year old Perodua Kancil 660 developed starting problems one night, I suspected straight away that the problem was due to the battery.

Kancil cars have a very small battery. In fact, the Kancil due to its small size, its battery is not known to last very long either.

As I recall, this battery which was a waterless type costs around RM130. The battery had been used for over 12 months. And so, when signs developed very recently, I knew that the time had arrived for the battery to be replaced.

Early the next morning, a call was made to my usual electrical wireman about my problem. With less than 15 minutes, an assistant had arrived at my doorstep. He had already bought a new battery.

Preliminary checks on the condition of my Kancil confirmed that the battery had seen better times. As such, he advised that a new battery needed to be installed.

This time around, I had requested the shop to supply me with the old version of battery, in which distilled water needed to be filled. A little bit more troublesome perhaps but hopefully it would last slightly longer than the last one.

After installation of the new battery which took about 15 minutes, the young assistant used a battery measuring meter to ensure that the battery was being supplied with the correct amount of voltage. Tests carried out by him confirmed that the alternator was indeed working perfectly.

For your information, I would like to advise readers that modern day vehicles no longer used dynamos like the old days. Nowadays, new models of cars use alternator instead. An alternator charges the battery.

For the first few days after my Kancil was installed with a new battery, everything worked well. Starting was smooth and everything appeared to be in order.

On the 4th day however, it developed the same symptoms before the battery was replaced. The ignition switch could no longer crank well. A quick visit to the electrical mechanic’s shop discovered the problem this time around was the “starter” as the old one had gone kaput. The cost of a new starter came to a sum of RM180.

If you think the replacement of a new starter unit meant the end of my woes, you are sadly mistaken. Hardly one week had passed, the Kancil again developed unusual jerkings. The starter unit again gave problems.

This time around, I decided to visit my regular foreman Raman whose shop is situated at nearby Taman Sentosa. I wonder what sort of problem will pop up this time? Stay tuned, the answer will surprise you in my next article.

Neo, according to the dictionary which I possess describes it as “new”. You can very well describe it as a new invention if you like. Therefore the phrase “new colonialism” would connote a policy or discipline which is a foreign policy that is propagated by strong nation in the world today over smaller and weaker nations, especially the third world countries through economic measures.

When I read the article which appeared in the Star newspaper dated 9th October 2010, it immediately interested me. The fact is, two of my own children, my son and my daughter both owned Satria Neo cars. Satria Neo, for your information are slightly favoured by youngsters of today. To them, these are cars that are a little bit different from other Proton cars such as the Wira, Iswara or Perdana model which are available in the Malaysian market today.

Furthermore, the Satria Neo is a 1600 cc vehicle with power steering. The Neo is marketed at more than RM48,000 and it is a good car. It’s only drawback is that it’s a 2 door car vehicle which some motorists say is cumbersome.

Pertaining to Proton recent recall, it has announced a voluntary recall of all its Gen 2 and Satria Neo cars reportedly manufactured between the years of 2004 and 2008. The recall has been made as it has been reported to have suffered a clock spring safety concerns in the above cars.

According to reports, the above recall is part of Proton Global Quality Assurance scheme. The above is to involve a total of 15,911 vehicles which constitutes 660,000 cars produced and sold within that period.

Proton’s recall is nothing unusual in the vehicle producing arena. Other major manufacturers such as Toyota and Honda have in recent months made similar recalls.

Toyota Motors for instance recalled its popular model Lexus GX 460 SUV for rollover during accidents at the beginning of January 2010. Toyota likewise had been forced to recall also its popular Crown model at the recommendation of the National Highway Traffic and Safety Agency of America (NHTSA). The Crown was recalled due to faulty springs in certain engines which lead to cause the vehicle to cease operation.

In Proton’s case, it is believed that the problem involved clock spring mechanisms which reputedly connect switches and airbags to the radio, horn and cruise control.

When I asked my son and daughter about their Proton car, I was told that their Neo model have no air bags. Air bag Neo had in fact been supplied to higher specs series which are more expensive. This clearly means their Neos are not involved in the recall exercise.

Proton’s latest recall comes after a similar recall involving 3rd seat belts for rear seat passengers. The Malaysian government had passed a law in Parliament making it compulsory for rear passengers of vehicles to don seat belts as of March 2010.

Some Kancil cars, which were produced years ago had 3rd seat belt fixing points at the rear. But it appears Proton had inadvertently neglected to fix the seat belts for some purchasers. Until today, the Kancil which I used to tutor driving students has yet to fix it with the above seat belt. What if in an eventuality I was stopped in a road block exercise and is issued a summons? Who then is responsible? It then becomes an interesting debacle.

To end this short article, it is my opinion, the recall of Proton Satria Neo and Gen 2 are like ripples in the ocean. It has happened before to other car makers thus it is not a big fuss. The Malaysian public should not be unduly worried. Two qualms about it, so they say. Let’s take it in our stride.

In Malaysia, there are 2 main types of brake fluid that are available in the market. Brake fluid DOT 3 is normally used by Malaysian vehicles. For your information, DOT means Department of Transport. DOT 3 is recommended specially for Malaysian cars or vehicles. It is most suitable for hot and humid tropical environment.

However, brake fluid DOT 4 is meant for high performance cars. It is said to be able to stand high temperatures. Furthermore, brake fluid DOT 4 is said to be more suitable to withstand the cold weather of most European countries.

I have been involved with the K.P.P. course a long time. The K.P.P. 5 hour lecture which a potential driving student has to attend prior to their sitting for their Highway Code exam has n important topic entitled “Emergencies which a driver faces whilst driving”. It touches upon some important topics such as a windscreen shattering, a car plummeting into a swollen river and how to change a punctured tyre.

Another important topic normally emphasized by me during K.P.P. is how a driver deals with the problem of an emergency brake failure.

Amongst the many suggestions and recommendation advices to drivers are:

i) To pump the brakes. Hopefully by doing this, the brakes will become more effective.

ii) A driver can pull up the hand brakes. This would most likely help to stop the vehicle or at least slow the car down.

iii) To try shifting down to a lower gear.

iv) Try crashing into something soft like ant hills.

v) Try crashing into vehicles which are parked in your way. Remember, by crashing into people’s car, you will eventually have to bear the cost of repairs.

Coming back to Honda’s latest recall, it comes a day after another automaker, Toyota, announced a safety recall of approximately 1.5 million vehicles worldwide o fix a brake leak that is said to be able to gradually diminish braking capacity. Honda’s defective cylinders were said to be built by an Ohio based supplier Advics. According to Honda’s spokeswoman, Chistina Ra, the supplier of the brake reservoirs were the ones to inform Honda of the issue.

The recall of Honda’s car is expected to involve Honda vehicles built between 2005 – 2007 for its popular models Accura RL and Honda Odyssey which were produced at Honda’s Saitama plant. The affected vehicles, some 472,000 of them were mostly exported to the United States.

Pertaining to the issue, Honda is unaware of any accidents or injuries related to this defect. Honda said the current recall is to prevent the untimely failure of a seal in the brake master cylinder. Honda further reiterated, that the seal would fail if factory installed brake fluid were to be replaced with sub standard fluid. This would then reduce lubrication properties. However, if this were to happen, the low brake warning light would then light up.

Honda also warned that a failure to repair the master cylinder defect would eventually result in a soft brake pedal and possibly to the lost of one of its two hydraulic braking circuits. As brakes of a car are deemed as important items of a vehicle and passenger safety is involved, owners of Honda vehicles worldwide should heed Honda’s latest recall and send their Acura and Odyssey models to Honda agents or workshops to have the defect rectified immediately.

Honda has done their part regarding their vehicles’ safety. Owners of Honda vehicles involved should also ideally do their part to help Honda Motors carry out its recall exercise successfully.

Like a radiator of a car, brake fluids are important items of vehicle. Vehicle owners of a car are advised to check the level of brake fluid in the brake reservoir from time to time. Brake fluids in fact come in various colours of blue, crimson and green. They can be intermixed without any problem.

Brake fluids are very corrosive. Should it be spilled accidentally into the body work of vehicles, ideally it should be washed away quickly with lots of water. Otherwise, the paintwork will be corroded away.

Mechanics advise, if brake fluid should get into our eyes accidentally, wash it away quickly with lots of water. Obviously, after that, you should immediately see a doctor to seek medical attention.

My personal mechanic, Raman, was once repairing the brake system of a vehicle. He was squatting and peering into the brake pipes. He found the pipes blocked. He had to bleed them. To bleed the brakes pipes means to get rid of air which has entered the brake pipes. Failing which, the brake system will not function properly.

Raman then instructed an assistant to get into the driver’s seat to pump the brakes. The assistant did what Raman requested. Raman was looking into the blocked brake pipes at the other end of the car. Suddenly, brake fluid squirted out and entered his eyes. Sensing danger, Raman immediately washed his eyes with lots of water. He immediately went to his doctor for treatment. The doctor who treated him billed him RM50.

Surprisingly, a few days later, Raman who previously has a cataract eye condition and needed RM2850 for an operation, found his cataract condition had improved or rather disappear.

The brake fluid which entered his eye during the above incident had helped removed the cataract in his eye. The incident is very strange, but it is all true.

The following are 6 tips I’ll recommend for anyone who is preparing for a Puspakom vehicle inspection. Other driving instructors may wish to adopt some of the measures taken for their own vehicles as well. They are free to do so if they should feel it’s viable.

1) The paint work and body condition of the vehicle.

Ensure body work is free from rust, knocks and dents. Have these repaired and then have the car repainted. Likewise, ensure that bumpers, front and rear lights are in good condition and working order. The same applies to indicators too. Brake lights and rear number lights should also be functioning as well.

2) Signages and company logo and addresses should also be in good order.

Make sure the company logo and address are in accordance with J.P.J.’s requirements. Ensure that your vehicle has the correct sized “P” plates and they are also of the required colours and designs as well. Faded signs should not be used as this might very well cause your vehicle to fail the Puspakom test.

3) Checking rear and front brakes.

A vehicle that’s sent for an inspection can be easily be failed if its front and rear brakes do not function properly. I make it a point to send my vehicle to have its brake system checked thoroughly by my mechanic, Raman.

Check the brake system and the handbrake should be adjusted when every inspection comes. Dust and grime are cleaned and blown away. Brake pads and linings are changes or adjusted wherever needed. The clutch cable is also adjusted wherever required. The same also applied to engine timing as well.

4) Lower arm and ball joint units to be checked.

The above items, without doubt, are some of the items that need careful examination. If loose, these items have to be replaced with new ones wherever required.

However, one could also get 2nd hand parts which are available in many second hand spare parts factories found abundant number around towns, if one wishes to save money.

5) Service the vehicle.

In the process of an examination, engine numbers and cassis numbers are checked. So it’s necessary to have one’s engine and under carriage be serviced thoroughly. During servicing, engines are washed thoroughly. The interior is also given a complete rub down. Servicing costs RM18 at most petrol service stations.

6) Inspect and ensure all 4 tyres are in good condition.

Ideally during examination, see to it that front and rear tyres are in good condition. You are advised to send your vehicle to have its alignment checked. Alignment costs RM10 at most tyre shops.

The mechanic at the shop where I go to might be young, but he is worth his mettle. He has the know-how of being able to diagnose what’s wrong with the vehicle is sent to him for alignment. I am indeed fortunate to meet such a good mechanic in him.

In the recent inspection, the examination which was scheduled for 1st September 2010, he advised me that the steering kingpin was faulty. Upon sending the vehicle to my normal mechanic, the steering fault was identified and immediate attention duly taken.

Talking about tyres, I sent my 1999 model Kancil 660 cc to my tyreman to have my vehicle fitted with 2 new Sime tyres each costing RM90 and new valves costing RM4 a piece. I also instructed that all 4 tyres were inflated to 24 psi as via advice given by an expert friend, Lai, who has been in the trade of car inspections for years.

My Visit To Puspakom For Vehicle Inspection

On the morning of 1st September 2010, I woke up early at 6:00 am. By 7:10 am, I was already at the Puspakom gates. I was 5th in line for the inspection that morning. As it was a puasa month, the officials did not begin work until 8:00 am.

But immediately as the clock struck 8 sharp, we allowed into the Puspakom premises. Payment was RM50. Upon finishing payment, I drove into lane 5 as advised. It was then only 8:15 am. Within less than 5 minutes, a young Puspakom officer directed me to drive the Kancil into the inspection arena.

After the engine and cassis were checked, the vehicle underwent brakes test procedures. This took less than 5 minutes. The vehicle then went through alignment test procedures smoothly.

The officer appeared satisfied with the condition of the car. Under carriage body inspection was however waived. Finally, the young officer took a walk around the vehicle inspecting its tail lights and indicators and then gave the instructions to finally drive away the Kancil to the parking area. The time then, as I looked at my wrist watch showed 8:25 am.

As I sat down at a couch reserved for those bringing their vehicles for inspection, the young officer yelled for me to approach him. As he confirmed with me the number of my car’s registration, he pushed towards me the results and the vehicle inspection disc of Puspakom valid until 1st March 2011.

Who would have believed that a Puspakom inspection exercise could be done so fast, in less then 20 minutes. And mind you, all these during the puasa month of Ramadan.

In fairness to the officials of Puspakom authorities, Syabas for a job very well done. Keep up the good work! My next vehicle inspection is scheduled for 1st March 2011 which is 6 months away.